Walking On Grass Socks

A long time ago (july 07) I bought HipKnits Cashmere Sock Yarn and cast on for two socks. I decided that I would not suffer from second sock syndrome because I would knit both socks at the first time. Also I wanted to knit toe-up as then I could try them on. All very honorable idea's but rather a challange for a novice sock knitter. Did I mention this was my first pair ever? Right. After a few weeks they where done, but the edge was not to my liking. So in the UFO bag they went and stayed. Until January. I felt de need to finished off a few old projects that where having a winter sleep. And now my socks are happily on my feet ever night when I go to bed, until my feet are warm. Super!!!!

They are called Walking on Grass Socks because first of all they are green and second they are soooo comfy that it feels like walking with bare feet. When I first put them on I felt like I do when you take of your shoes a step on soft green grass on a warm summers day. :) So nice! I miss the warm weather. Felt like an age since we had summer here in England. Anyway the socks are lovely and just in case you want them too: I've decided to type out the pattern. As I like to cross off each line during heel knitting I've wrote them out completley (so it's quite long).


Soft and warm, the luxe cashmere socks...

Project details:

2 skeins (100.0 yards or 91.4m) of HipKnits Cashmere Sock Yarn
needles: US 2 / 2.75 mm
A whole lot of patience!

k2tog: knit two stitches together
m1: make one stitch by picking up and knitting into bar between two sts
wrap (RS): with yarn at back of work, slip stitch purlwise. Bring yarn to front of work around back of slipped stitch. Pass slipped stitch back to left needle. Turn work, bring yarn to front to complete wrap
wrap (WS): with yarn at front of work, slip stitch purlwise. Bring yarn to back of work around front of slipped stitch. Pass slipped stitch back to left needle. Turn work, bring yarn to back to
complete wrap.

Instructions

Cast on 24 stitches using the Magic Cast-on for toe-up socks. This tutorial will also teach you to knit two socks at once. Follow the pattern and increase (K1, m1, k all except last stitch, m1, k1 on both needles) until you have 32 stitches on each needle (64 in total).

Now start the foot section by following the pattern for 32 stitches on one needle and k all on the second, thus completing one round. The first half, with the pattern, will be on top of you foot, the second half, with only knit stitches will be the sole.

Main Pattern:

Round 1: P1, K30, P2, K30, P1
Row 1: P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, P1;
knit all stitches from second needle.
Round 2: P1, * K 2 tog, do not remove from left needle. K the first st again. Remove both sts from left needle, P 2* repeat from * to * until 3 stitches, K2, P1; knit all stitches from second needle.
Round 3: P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, P1;
knit all stitches from second needle.
Round 4: P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, P1;
knit all stitches from second needle.

Follow this pattern until you've knit approx. 20 cm (8 inches) then start on the heel. You will now work only on the bottom half of you knitting (the part that is the sole). This is done with regular back and forth knitting, so you have a Right Side (RS) and Wrong Side (WS). There are 32 stitches on this needle and the amount of stitches does not change, however the amount you are actually knitting does change.

Heel decreases:

Row 1 (RS): K31, wrap next st.
Row 2 (WS): P30, wrap next st.
Row 3 (RS): K29, wrap next st.
Row 4 (WS): P28, wrap next st.
Row 5 (RS): K27, wrap next st.
Row 6 (WS): P26, wrap next st.
Row 7 (RS): K25, wrap next st.
Row 8 (WS): P24, wrap next st.
Row 9 (RS): K23, wrap next st.
Row 10 (WS): P22, wrap next st.
Row 11 (RS): K21, wrap next st.
Row 12 (WS): P20, wrap next st.
Row 13 (RS): K19, wrap next st.
Row 14 (WS): P18, wrap next st.
Row 15 (RS): K17, wrap next st.
Row 16 (WS): P16, wrap next st.

Heel increases:

Row 1: K16, k1+Wrap TBL (knit the next stitch together with its wrap through the back loop) and then rewrap next st.
Row 2: P17, p1+Wrap TBL (purl the next stitch together with its wrap through the back loop) and then rewrap next st.
Row 3: K18, k1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st.
Row 4: P19, p1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st
Row 5: K20, k1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st.
Row 6: P21, p1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st
Row 7: K22, k1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st.
Row 8: P23, p1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st
Row 9: K24, k1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st.
Row 10: P25, p1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st
Row 11: K26, k1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st.
Row 12: P27, p1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st
Row 13: K28, k1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st.
Row 14: P29, p1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st
Row 15: K30, k1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st.
Row 16: P31, p1
Turn work

From this point you will work in the round again.

Leg

Knit one extra round: P1, K30, P2, K30, P1
After this extra round continue to work in the main pattern but instead of knitting all the stitches on the second needle, repeat the instructions for the first needle as stated per round on the second needle.

Repeat round 1 to 4 until your socks are the lenght you want them to be. If you got slim calves you might not need increases. In that case proceed to the Cuff and Bind Off section below.

If you have big calves and don't like socks that stop at your ankle, knit them higher and add a few increases. I tried my socks on as I went to determine where I should start my increases. In my case this was at 8 cm (3.5 inches)measured from just above the heel (where you start the pattern after doing the heel). I increased ever pattern repeat on the left and then on the right side. If you got smaller calves perhaps an increase every other pattern repeat will do. You could increase only on one side (perhaps you like the increases on the inside of your legs). In that case use either the left increase for sock 1 and the right increase for sock 2.


Notice the increases...

Increases for the calves

Increase on the left
Round 1:
1st needle (as normal):P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, P1.
2nd needle: P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, M1, P1.
Round 2:
1st needle (as normal): P1, * K 2 tog, do not remove from left needle. K the first st again. Remove both sts from left needle, P 2* repeat from * to * until 3 stitches, K 2 tog, do not remove from left needle. K the first st again. Remove both sts from left needle, P1.
2nd needle: P1, * K 2 tog, do not remove from left needle. K the first st again. Remove both sts from left needle, P 2* repeat from * to * until last 4 stitches, K 2 tog, do not remove from left needle. K the first st again. Remove both sts from left needle, K1, M1, P1.
Round 3 (as normal):
P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, P1; repeat on second needle
Round 4 (as normal):
P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, P1; repeat on second needle.

Increase on the right side
Round 1:
1st needle: P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, M1, P1.
2nd needle (as normal): P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, P1.
Round 2:
1st needle: P1, * K 2 tog, do not remove from left needle. K the first st again. Remove both sts from left needle, P 2* repeat from * to * until last 4 stitches, K 2 tog, do not remove from left needle. K the first st again. Remove both sts from left needle, K1, M1, P1.
2nd needle (as normal): P1, * K 2 tog, do not remove from left needle. K the first st again. Remove both sts from left needle, P 2* repeat from * to * until 3 stitches, K 2 tog, do not remove from left needle. K the first st again. Remove both sts from left needle, P1.
Round 3 (as normal):
P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, P1; repeat on second needle.
Round 4 (as normal):
P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, P1; repeat on second needle.

Cuff and Bind off
K2,p2 for 8 rounds to form the cuff and cast off very loosely.

Finished!!!