Who can get me an Outdoor Living?

I was hoping, with some visitors to my blog from the States, someone would be kind enough to do me a favour. I would really (so so so much) like to buy Martha Stewarts Living Outdoor 2008. This is a special issue and not available in England (or anywhere outside the US). Can someone please, when they are next out and they spot it, buy one for me please and send it to England. I will (ofcourse) pay for both magazine and P&P. And if there is ever anything you'd like from the UK, I can send that back. It would just be great to have a buddy across the water so we can exchange things like that.
Please mail me at: happylivingblog@googlemail.com

Thanks!!!

Dining in 2015

I was happily browsing away one day when I spotted this Design competition. Nothing new but the brief was Dining in 2015. A shortlist of entries gave me half an hour of very good entertainment. It's quite remarkle what people can come up with. You should really have a look and click on some, because the one I picked for my blog is not the most spectecular. It is however very colourfull.


Terrariums for the windowsill.

These Terrariums would look fantastic on my windowsill. And it's because I can picture myself trying to find terrariums that look like these. I would have preffered it if the round (clear glass and pink) ones had a dome that was without the bump. I like the fact that you can look inside an clearly see the plants.


Who is carring what?

Anyway on we go to this other item I spotted. A clear plastic bag with a person on it. Very funny! Cause who carries what exactly?

***** warning *** Rant *** warning *****

I'm not much into plastic bags as they are bad for the enviroment and seem to multiply when you aren't looking. Especially here in the UK. Never in my life have I seen sales people that so desperately wanted to give me a plastic bag, even with items (like bl**dy chewing gum, pens, birthday cards) that fit easily in my hand bag. It's madness I tell you. In the Netherlands you are half expected to bring your own bag and have to pay for plastic that is more durable like supermarket bags. The Sainsbury plastic bag (the orange one you buy) has a twin brother in the Dutch Albert Heijn bag, which has been around for ages! About time the UK catches up.


No excuses... clean up your mess!

And now I'm on the subject of madness. What is with trowing the trash on the street. Don't the English teach their kids that this is NOT right. Never have I seen a more poluted country when it comes to trash. I think high (and I mean very high) fines would be a very good idea here. Like £200 ($400) if you throw anything on the ground that is not biological (like an apple, or bread for the ducks). Smokers should carry one of those round pocket ashtrays to collect their sigarette buds and people should CLEAN UP THEIR OWN MESS! Common sense really!

Right rant over!

Levatating Lamp

I spotted this picture of a floating buddha somewhere and liked it a lot, but thought it a photoshop trick. I was wrong it's actually floating like the lamp made with the same technique next to it. After some investigation I found out that both make use of a technology that is developed by Crealev.


The floating buddha and lamp

The lamp was first seen during the Dutch Design Week in 2007. The levatating technology has been used in lamps by Angela Jansen. These lamps are known under the name LOS (loose). And it is rumored that they might go for sale in 2008.


See how it works...

I like the lamps but am not wild about them. I think the base just doesn't appeal to me. The Buddha has my vote. I think it looks great floating somewhere in the livingroom. hehe. :) I couldn't find any info on the Buddha unfortunately. If I ever do, I'll post it on my blog.


Another film about the floating lamp & disc..

Walking On Grass Socks

A long time ago (july 07) I bought HipKnits Cashmere Sock Yarn and cast on for two socks. I decided that I would not suffer from second sock syndrome because I would knit both socks at the first time. Also I wanted to knit toe-up as then I could try them on. All very honorable idea's but rather a challange for a novice sock knitter. Did I mention this was my first pair ever? Right. After a few weeks they where done, but the edge was not to my liking. So in the UFO bag they went and stayed. Until January. I felt de need to finished off a few old projects that where having a winter sleep. And now my socks are happily on my feet ever night when I go to bed, until my feet are warm. Super!!!!

They are called Walking on Grass Socks because first of all they are green and second they are soooo comfy that it feels like walking with bare feet. When I first put them on I felt like I do when you take of your shoes a step on soft green grass on a warm summers day. :) So nice! I miss the warm weather. Felt like an age since we had summer here in England. Anyway the socks are lovely and just in case you want them too: I've decided to type out the pattern. As I like to cross off each line during heel knitting I've wrote them out completley (so it's quite long).


Soft and warm, the luxe cashmere socks...

Project details:

2 skeins (100.0 yards or 91.4m) of HipKnits Cashmere Sock Yarn
needles: US 2 / 2.75 mm
A whole lot of patience!

k2tog: knit two stitches together
m1: make one stitch by picking up and knitting into bar between two sts
wrap (RS): with yarn at back of work, slip stitch purlwise. Bring yarn to front of work around back of slipped stitch. Pass slipped stitch back to left needle. Turn work, bring yarn to front to complete wrap
wrap (WS): with yarn at front of work, slip stitch purlwise. Bring yarn to back of work around front of slipped stitch. Pass slipped stitch back to left needle. Turn work, bring yarn to back to
complete wrap.

Instructions

Cast on 24 stitches using the Magic Cast-on for toe-up socks. This tutorial will also teach you to knit two socks at once. Follow the pattern and increase (K1, m1, k all except last stitch, m1, k1 on both needles) until you have 32 stitches on each needle (64 in total).

Now start the foot section by following the pattern for 32 stitches on one needle and k all on the second, thus completing one round. The first half, with the pattern, will be on top of you foot, the second half, with only knit stitches will be the sole.

Main Pattern:

Round 1: P1, K30, P2, K30, P1
Row 1: P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, P1;
knit all stitches from second needle.
Round 2: P1, * K 2 tog, do not remove from left needle. K the first st again. Remove both sts from left needle, P 2* repeat from * to * until 3 stitches, K2, P1; knit all stitches from second needle.
Round 3: P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, P1;
knit all stitches from second needle.
Round 4: P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, P1;
knit all stitches from second needle.

Follow this pattern until you've knit approx. 20 cm (8 inches) then start on the heel. You will now work only on the bottom half of you knitting (the part that is the sole). This is done with regular back and forth knitting, so you have a Right Side (RS) and Wrong Side (WS). There are 32 stitches on this needle and the amount of stitches does not change, however the amount you are actually knitting does change.

Heel decreases:

Row 1 (RS): K31, wrap next st.
Row 2 (WS): P30, wrap next st.
Row 3 (RS): K29, wrap next st.
Row 4 (WS): P28, wrap next st.
Row 5 (RS): K27, wrap next st.
Row 6 (WS): P26, wrap next st.
Row 7 (RS): K25, wrap next st.
Row 8 (WS): P24, wrap next st.
Row 9 (RS): K23, wrap next st.
Row 10 (WS): P22, wrap next st.
Row 11 (RS): K21, wrap next st.
Row 12 (WS): P20, wrap next st.
Row 13 (RS): K19, wrap next st.
Row 14 (WS): P18, wrap next st.
Row 15 (RS): K17, wrap next st.
Row 16 (WS): P16, wrap next st.

Heel increases:

Row 1: K16, k1+Wrap TBL (knit the next stitch together with its wrap through the back loop) and then rewrap next st.
Row 2: P17, p1+Wrap TBL (purl the next stitch together with its wrap through the back loop) and then rewrap next st.
Row 3: K18, k1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st.
Row 4: P19, p1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st
Row 5: K20, k1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st.
Row 6: P21, p1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st
Row 7: K22, k1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st.
Row 8: P23, p1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st
Row 9: K24, k1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st.
Row 10: P25, p1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st
Row 11: K26, k1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st.
Row 12: P27, p1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st
Row 13: K28, k1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st.
Row 14: P29, p1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st
Row 15: K30, k1+Wrap TBL and rewrap next st.
Row 16: P31, p1
Turn work

From this point you will work in the round again.

Leg

Knit one extra round: P1, K30, P2, K30, P1
After this extra round continue to work in the main pattern but instead of knitting all the stitches on the second needle, repeat the instructions for the first needle as stated per round on the second needle.

Repeat round 1 to 4 until your socks are the lenght you want them to be. If you got slim calves you might not need increases. In that case proceed to the Cuff and Bind Off section below.

If you have big calves and don't like socks that stop at your ankle, knit them higher and add a few increases. I tried my socks on as I went to determine where I should start my increases. In my case this was at 8 cm (3.5 inches)measured from just above the heel (where you start the pattern after doing the heel). I increased ever pattern repeat on the left and then on the right side. If you got smaller calves perhaps an increase every other pattern repeat will do. You could increase only on one side (perhaps you like the increases on the inside of your legs). In that case use either the left increase for sock 1 and the right increase for sock 2.


Notice the increases...

Increases for the calves

Increase on the left
Round 1:
1st needle (as normal):P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, P1.
2nd needle: P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, M1, P1.
Round 2:
1st needle (as normal): P1, * K 2 tog, do not remove from left needle. K the first st again. Remove both sts from left needle, P 2* repeat from * to * until 3 stitches, K 2 tog, do not remove from left needle. K the first st again. Remove both sts from left needle, P1.
2nd needle: P1, * K 2 tog, do not remove from left needle. K the first st again. Remove both sts from left needle, P 2* repeat from * to * until last 4 stitches, K 2 tog, do not remove from left needle. K the first st again. Remove both sts from left needle, K1, M1, P1.
Round 3 (as normal):
P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, P1; repeat on second needle
Round 4 (as normal):
P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, P1; repeat on second needle.

Increase on the right side
Round 1:
1st needle: P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, M1, P1.
2nd needle (as normal): P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, P1.
Round 2:
1st needle: P1, * K 2 tog, do not remove from left needle. K the first st again. Remove both sts from left needle, P 2* repeat from * to * until last 4 stitches, K 2 tog, do not remove from left needle. K the first st again. Remove both sts from left needle, K1, M1, P1.
2nd needle (as normal): P1, * K 2 tog, do not remove from left needle. K the first st again. Remove both sts from left needle, P 2* repeat from * to * until 3 stitches, K 2 tog, do not remove from left needle. K the first st again. Remove both sts from left needle, P1.
Round 3 (as normal):
P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, P1; repeat on second needle.
Round 4 (as normal):
P1, * K 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until last 3 stitches, K2, P1; repeat on second needle.

Cuff and Bind off
K2,p2 for 8 rounds to form the cuff and cast off very loosely.

Finished!!!

Cashmere neck warmer

POST UPDATE:
Pattern is now available in PDF download.
To download the Cashmere Neck Warmer (PDF) simply right click the link and select 'save source as' OR click the link, let the page load and click the 'save' icon on the top left.

Ravelry is great for new inspiration. I spotted the Luxe Neck Warmer from the book Knit 2 Together. Unfortunaltey I couldn't buy the book (need to watch my finances). So I studied the projects I liked and made up my very own version of the neck warmer and as I made it out of cashmere I named it the Cashmere Neck Warmer (original don't you think?).


Very please with the result

I used a stitch from a stich dictionary that is very easy. I knitted it in the round and it's just 3 rows of knitting, 1 row of the pattern. The impact of that one row is great and the result is this very lovely piece that I want to wear every day. It's so comfy and soft. I'm well pleased with it.


detail of the neck warmer

The pattern:

Cashmere Neck Warmer

5.0 mm circular needle (us 8)
3 skeins of Debbie Bliss Pure Cashmere

I used 2 and some left over, total weight of project is 70 grams, which is just under 3 skeins (= 75 grams). This made me able to repeat the pattern for 17 times, but you can make it as long as you like. I placed stitch markers ever 18 sts, makes it easier.

Cast on 90 sts. Place Marker & join. Knit in the rounds following pattern:

1: K all
2: K all
3: K all
4: P2tog 3x, k1 & yo 6x, P2tog 3x

Repeat until desired lenght
K all for 2 rounds
Bind of and work in ends.


Nice and soft

Wintery Hat

Finally I got a picture to show you all. This nice and thick wintery hat I made for my boyfriend for Christmas. I knitted it in less then 4 hours, so it's a perfect quick knit. the 2x2 pattern makes it stretchy so it will fit most heads. Which if you are like me, and want to keep it a surpise, is a good thing. I think he would have guessed if I had suddenly tried to measure his head.

He really was not expecting it. He'd asked if I could knit him a hat and we went to look at yarn twice. But as his interest in yarn is minimal it turned out rather pointless. So I just picked up a colour I thought would match his coat and scarf and knitted it in secret. In the mean time he had purchased a Nike wooly hat, that now lies descarted in a corner somewhere wishing it was hand knit (hehehehe).


It took a while but I finaly got him to pose

Project details

One skein of Rowan RYC Cashsoft Chunky, colour: 702
5.0 mm needles (us 8)

I used the Tubular Cast on I learned to use when making the Gretel Beret from Ysolda. This means you cast on half the number of stitches needed, in this case 38.

After you finish the Tubular cast on you should have 76 stitches on your needles. Place marker, join and start knitting in the round in a 2x2 rib (k2, p2, k2, etc). Do this for 15 cm (6 inches).

Decreases
*k2tog, p2tog*, repeat till end (38 stitches on needles).
k1,p1 for 5 rounds
k2tog for one round (19 stitches)
k1 round
k1, k2tog till end. (10 stitches left)
cut yarn
tread end through last 10 stitches and pull tight.
work in ends

Give the hat to a guy you love and hope he enjoys this man's hat. Nice and chunky!


When not on a head it looks a bit odd

Cosy iPod

It's been very cold these last few weeks. And my poor iPod had nothing to keep it warm except a very inadequate rubbery cover. Time to get knitting.

I had bought a skein of Noro Silk Garden Lite (colour 2010) and decided to knit a striped cosy using the instructions from the I Knit This blog (see below). To cover an iPod Classic cast on 30 stitches and knit 2 rows, then switched to 2nd colour (I used both ends of the ball), to get stripped effect.


Striped Noro

I also had some DB pure Cashmere left over in three colours. So I made a second one. Which is softer (less scratchy) which I think my ipod perfers. I worry a bit about scratches using the Noro one, although I perfer the colour and stripes. For the Cashmere version cast on 24 stitches and start knitting, changing colour randomly to get a varied effect.


Super soft...

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Pattern instructions form I Knit This Blog

Pattern:
C.O. enough sts to stretch around your ipod (should be divisible by both 3 and 2,) join. Work in 2×1 seed or broken rib for an inch or so. P 1 round. K until the thing is long enough.

Divide sts between 2 needles and graft together.